Can I Have My Action As Low As Possible Without Buzzing?

So, you want your action “as low as possible without buzzing”?

This unfortunately is a phrase that makes guitar techs the world over grit their teeth, and for good reason – there’s no such thing, or rather – if I set the action to have absolutely no fretbuzz, you’d likely complain that it was too high.

Guitars are designed in such a way that there is ALWAYS some fret buzz unless the action is VERY high. As you go lower (towards a more typical action) there will usually be some buzz somewhere on the fretboard, especially if you hit the strings pretty hard. As you go lower, the buzz increases. There’s no magic “low action/no buzz” point to aim for. It’s really a question of reasonable compromise.

Let me tell you a story.

A client brought a Fender Telecaster in for a setup saying “It’s buzzing all over the fretboard!”

Huh!

So I play tested the guitar (didn’t seem THAT bad), straightened the neck a touch and adjusted the action so that it was medium-ish and didn’t buzz very much at all. I called the client to let him know that his guitar was ready to collect.

When he came, I sat him on the “testing chair” and gave him the guitar.

“Do you want a plectrum?” I said.

“Yes please – do you have a 1mm?”

“Sure – here you go.”

He took the plectrum from me and gripped it with the force of a thousand tigers. His knuckles whitened with the sheer energy of his Herculean grip.

He then put his ear to the neck and began slamming the low E string, at around the 14th fret.

THUNKZZZZ!!

THUNKZZZZ!!

THUNKZZZZ!!

“It’s still buzzing”, he said.

I had no words.

I tried to convince him that there aren’t many songs that exclusively use the low E string at the 14th fret, and that perhaps his very heavy-handed technique wasn’t helping. He remained unconvinced, and to this day probably thinks I’m a bullshit artist that doesn’t know what he’s doing. Can’t win ’em all, eh?

I’m becoming more convinced that once people learn enough to identify what fretbuzz IS, they become hyper sensitive to it ESPECIALLY when they’re paying someone good money to make it go away. There are techs out there that may approach this differently, but as Paloma Faith sang – Do you want the truth or something beautiful?

For a low, buzz free action you need to have the following:

  • A guitar neck that is perfectly made (most aren’t)
  • Dead level frets (most aren’t, even on new guitars. Hell, ESPECIALLY on new guitars!)
  • A correctly cut nut
  • Neck relief (truss rod) set perfectly
  • A light to medium playing style

If you take just one of those away, your guitar is more likely to buzz SOMEWHERE on the neck.

If the frets are worn, you can have buzzing on the specific worn frets. If a fret is loose and stood proud, the frets below it will buzz. If the truss rod isn’t adjusted properly you can have buzzing all over. If the nut it cut too high it won’t cause buzz but the action will be compromised. If the nut is cut too low the open strings will choke or buzz. If you hit the strings really hard, with your ear to the fretboard, you will ALWAYS be able to find some buzz. So many variables.

But ask yourself these questions:

  • Can I hear it when the guitar is plugged in?
  • Is the low action more important than the fretbuzz? (zero buzz is no good if the action is waaay too high for you to play it properly)
  • Would my time be better spent practicing, rather than worrying about a tiny bit of fretbuzz? (always yes, but that’s just me being cheeky)
  • Do I want to pay for a full fret dress as well as a setup (usually around £100) Your call but sometimes it really is needed.

So there we go. The zero bullshit guide to fretbuzz. Fretbuzz is just unfortunately a side effect of the way that fretted musical instruments work. It can be minimised for sure, but if you want a really low action it is sadly sometimes unavoidable.

2 thoughts on “Can I Have My Action As Low As Possible Without Buzzing?

  1. Marty D says:
    Marty D's avatar

    Excellent article! I like my action set ultra low and play fairly aggressively and I have always accepted a certain amount of buzz. It’s not audible when plugged in so I think it’s a worthy compromise.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. dave says:
    dave's avatar

    BINGO! well said! LOL the holy grail,

    ive also found you can have a bad trussrod tension to neck {“ratio” if you will} So in other words, if the trussrod is really tight with a straight board tuned in E, the neck had too much curve in it before it was ever even in somebody’s hands, and is set up to fail, one might think it would keep a tight hold and you might have less tuning change if a string broke, but if a string breaks the tension uptunes the strings, ON the other hand if the neck is perfectly straight with no tension on it “at all” and tuned in E (i had this issue once on a Warmoth neck,(not a dual action rod either) ive found the absolute opposite is true (which makes sense) setting the tension to get the neck straight in this case tuned to E results in a kinda floppy neck because the rod is hardly in use and only comping the string tension. this one i had in particular you could hear the truss rod vibrating in it while playing sometimes, and if you tapped the back of the neck it rattled when it had a slight relief. of course if its only a touch you can tweak the rod a bit and level the frets (sacrificing some of the fret material on the midfrets, but you can clean it up and whallah, a half way decently playable neck.(actually done that) BUT if at all i love to have a neck with a rod adjust that is at hand tension before forcing (in E) and a relief that mimics the tap action of the first fret when you hold down on the 3rd fret (tap and hear/or see sliver of light). HOWEVER, for guys that like the lower action, rather than set nut action by the tap on 1rst fret while holding the 3rd method, ill actually capo the first, check the gap on the 3rd, and then use that gap as the new open 1rst gap, after working the nut slots accordingly, i then set the upper action less than usual listening to the buzz and useing it to achieve a tone change that is at least appealing, IE the difference’s between no buzz, a tinge, a little more, Constance, and a flat slap sustain killer seems the difference of 2/64ths, somewhere in there some guys like a shred action, where the amp/distortion hide or make up for what the guitar loses but it feels like butter to them because the interaction of what they hear in connect to the buzz freq’s felt while playing makes for their particular “feel”. personally i do like a hair under spec for the low E and a hair over for the high E, about 4/64ths across the board, and i get nice bends without interference, and nice low tones with a kinda spicy tinge, but i have a LP that is 5/64 4/64 that i LOVE!! one of those “it plays me” guitars

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